Chapter 2 introduces four sets, each inspired by a tree emblematic of one of De Beers’ four diamond-producing countries. The new designs expand on Chapter 1, which launched in January.

The Camelthorn Resilience set draws on the silhouette of the Camelthorn tree, a feature of Namibia’s desert landscapes. Polished and hand-textured gold mimics the tree’s bark, while white and brown rough diamonds are set in basket settings to echo its organic form. The necklace in the set can be worn in seven different ways.

Meanwhile, the Baobab Magnitude set references Botswana’s ancient baobab tree, known as the ‘tree of life’. The designs combine jet with white and Fancy coloured diamonds, both rough and polished. New techniques for the house include hand-carved jet and the intricate setting of rough diamonds with diamond melee.

Additionally, inspired by South Africa’s jacaranda tree, the Jacaranda Bloom set features floral designs articulated to move with the wearer. 

Pieces include pear-shaped, marquise and round brilliant-cut diamonds. Grand Feu enamel is used to capture the purple gradient of the tree’s blossoms. 

Two standout stones feature: a 20.10 carat D-Flawless pear-shaped diamond and a 1.01 carat Fancy Intense Pink diamond.

Lastly, the Maple Colours set pays tribute to Canada’s national tree. The pieces feature geometric leaves crafted in white, yellow and rose gold with fancy orange-hued diamonds. White diamonds and polished metal are used to reflect the textures of fallen leaves.

The remaining 17 pieces from the collection will be revealed at an event in China this autumn.

Emmanuelle Nodale, De Beers London chief executive, said: “We are proud to present ‘Essence of Nature: Chapter 2’, continuing our celebration of the majesty of trees while paying tribute to four important sources of our diamonds.

“The collection deepens our connection with the lands, drawing on over 135 years of expertise in rough and polished diamonds. We are a house born from contrasts, and Essence of Nature showcases our bold artistry and pioneering craft techniques, with an unexpected duality between modernity and timelessness.”

The 10 recipients of the 2025 Emerging Business Bursary will each receive a gift of 400 grams of AgAIN silver bullion, made from reclaimed medical x-ray films, along with a 15% discount on tools.

The Emerging Business Bursary (EBB), launched in 2024, reimagines the Fair’s longstanding support for early career makers in recognition of the different routes that lead craftspeople into the trade.

The 2025 Emerging Business Bursaries have been awarded to Monica Findlay, Lucy Anderson, Isabella Bedlington, Wenyin Jiang, Liu Yang, Alice Biolo, Emma Lawrence, Francisca Onumah, Alewijn Slingerland and Gillian Finlay.

Harriet Scott, head of Goldsmiths’ Fair, said: “Goldsmiths’ Fair has proudly supported early career makers through bursary schemes since the year 2000. Whilst establishing yourself as an independent craftsperson has never been easy, over the last 25 years the rising costs of equipment, energy, materials, rates and rents, combined with record high prices for precious metals, have made it more challenging than ever before.

“Through this partnership with The Betts Group, and their generous gift of four kilograms of AgAIN silver bullion, the 10 recipients our 2025 Emerging Business Bursary are receiving a comprehensive package of support that will help them to have the first of many fantastic years exhibiting at Goldsmiths’ Fair.”

Charlie Betts, managing director of The Betts Group, added: “We’re thrilled to partner with Goldsmiths’ Fair in support of early career makers through the 2025 Emerging Business Bursary.

“The future of our trade relies on transparency and sustainability, and the 400 grams of AgAIN silver bullion that each of the bursary recipients will receive sets them on a course to make positive choices about their practice and its impact on the environment.”

The 15-piece range was designed and made by The Royal Mint’s craftspeople and draws on traditional techniques alongside contemporary styling. The collection is being sold exclusively through Mappin and Webb.

It forms part of a broader shift by The Royal Mint – historically known for producing UK coinage – to expand into new commercial areas, including jewellery manufacturing.

The pieces are made from gold extracted at The Royal Mint’s Precious Metals Recovery facility in south Wales, which uses technology developed by Canadian firm Excir to recover precious metals from discarded circuit boards.

The Royal Mint launched its own fine jewellery brand, 886 by The Royal Mint, in 2022.

Sean Millard, chief growth officer at The Royal Mint, said: “The Royal Mint’s collection for Mappin and Webb showcases our evolution as a heritage brand that is innovating and applying centuries of craftsmanship to new opportunities.”

Craig Bolton, president UK and Europe at The Watches of Switzerland Group, which operates Mappin and Webb, added: “We’re honoured to present this collection in Mappin and Webb’s 250th anniversary year.  It’s the perfect pairing as a commemorative expression of the work of two historic British brands, which share a commitment to excellence and sustainability.”

Kesah Trowell, group head of Sustainability and ESG, Watches of Switzerland Group, concluded: “We are proud to launch this exciting collection in partnership with The Royal Mint, which exemplifies our commitment to circularity and offering clients fully traceable fine jewellery. These striking pieces, created using a combination of cutting-edge technology and traditional techniques, tell a fascinating story of responsible sourcing, skilled craftmanship and sustainability.”

The company will present a selection of its latest stock, including an exquisite range of large, lustrous nucleated cultured pearl strands that promise to captivate.

Large nucleated cultured pearls are carefully cultivated over several years, resulting in pieces with not only impressive size but also a rich, lustrous quality. They offer a rare combination of size, surface quality and natural colour.

In addition to launching new collections, Raw Pearls will be celebrating the continued popularity of baroque pearls with an exclusive show-only promotion.

Attendees will also have access to Raw Pearls’ brochure, where the full range can be explored in detail. The brochure features to-scale images of many products, allowing customers to get a real feel for the pieces.

It also showcases carefully matched items, helping clients to build cohesive, elegant pearl collections with ease.

Raw Pearls continues to build on its success, following recognition as ‘Supplier of the Year’ at the 2023 UK Jewellery Awards.

The letter outlines the legal obligations, which require businesses to assess and control exposure to hazardous substances such as soldering fumes, polishing dusts, acid vapours, and chemical solvents commonly found in jewellery-making environments.

In the UK, jewellery business employers must comply with The Health and Safety at Work Act 1974, and the COSHH Regulations 2002 which mandate risk assessments for hazardous substances.

Vodex has stressed the importance of extraction “at source” over general ventilation, especially in preventing harmful fine particulates from entering the breathing zone of workers.

The open letter also explains the hierarchy of control measures and details how Local Exhaust Ventilation (LEV) systems can significantly reduce exposure.

Paul Riddick, co-founder and technical director, said: “This letter aims to raise awareness among jewellery makers about the workplace dangers and the necessity of investing in proper fume and dust extraction systems.

“It is crucial for everyone involved to consider the risks outlined in COSHH regulations and to prioritise the health and safety of artisans. By advocating for comprehensive extraction solutions, we at Vodex hope to prevent harmful substances from becoming airborne, ensuring a safer environment for all.”

The Round Table will bring together key stakeholders in the diamond industry to discuss the most effective approaches for promoting natural diamonds through category marketing.

The Angola Ministerial Roundtable will be hosted by Angola’s Ministry of Mineral Resources, Petroleum and Gas (MIREMPET).

It will bring together Ministers responsible for the Mineral Resource Sector from major African diamond-producing countries, namely Botswana, Namibia, South Africa, Sierra Leone and the Democratic Republic of Congo.

Cook said: “We are proud of the beauty of diamonds and the benefits they bring to producing nations, but it’s vital that we inspire consumers with the wonder of these natural miracles. I commend the Angolan Government for taking the initiative to establish this event so that key stakeholders in the diamond industry can come together.

“I’m looking forward to joining leaders of diamond producing countries and businesses in Luanda so that we can align on a successful shared approach for promoting natural diamonds.”

De Beers has diamond mining operations in Botswana, Canada, Namibia and South Africa, employing over 2000 people.

The Ombre Desert Diamonds is inspired by desert landscapes where many natural diamonds are found, and features warm white, champagne and amber tones in multi-stone ombré designs. It aims to evoke the beauty and rarity of natural diamonds and renew consumer interest in the category.

Beacons are its category-wide marketing concepts intended to stimulate demand for natural diamonds through new, “emotionally resonant” design ideas. Previous examples include the eternity and three-stone rings.

Retailers across the industry will be able to participate in the Ombré Desert Diamonds programme. De Beers is backing the launch with significant investment in media and digital campaigns, and will provide participants with marketing materials.

De Beers also formally introduced a new branded polished diamond line, Origin, De Beers Group. Initially revealed at the 2024 edition of the JCK show, the programme offers loose natural diamonds supported by provenance data and storytelling tools.

Origin diamonds will come with detailed information about their country of origin, journey through the value chain, rarity score and associated social impact programmes. The data is underpinned by Tracr, De Beers Group’s blockchain platform.

The company said the offering would give consumers assurance of ethical provenance while providing retailers with tools to boost digital engagement.

At the show, De Beers also updated attendees on other parts of its Origins strategy. It reported the completion of airborne geophysical surveys in Angola, a milestone in its upstream exploration activities.

In the midstream, the company said it was intensifying efforts on traceability. This year it added single-country origin data to Tracr and launched the DiamondProof verification tool in US retail stores.

On synthetic diamonds, De Beers announced the first output of technology diamonds at its Element Six Oregon Centre. The site is part of a $130m (£96.07m) investment in industrial synthetic diamond solutions. The update follows De Beers’ decision to shut its Lightbox lab-grown jewellery brand.

Al Cook, chief executive officer of De Beers Group, said: “One year on from announcing our Origins strategy, we have made fast and meaningful progress in delivering our vision. We have met every target that we announced back in 2024. Every part of De Beers is evolving to create lasting value, benefitting shareholders, the industry and consumers. 

“The launch of our first beacon in over a decade marks an exciting new era in showcasing the magic of natural diamonds, while Origin, De Beers Group connects people with the powerful stories behind natural diamonds – the communities they help support, the landscapes they come from, and the meaningful impact they create. With innovation across the value chain – from provenance to synthetic diamond technology – De Beers is reinforcing its leadership in an evolving marketplace.”

ODC has commenced registering rough diamonds in the 3-6gr and 2-10ct size ranges on Tracr, significantly increasing the availability of traceable diamonds from Botswana.

Debswana, the joint venture between De Beers and the Botswana government, is supporting ODC’s participation in Tracr by providing the necessary supply information to facilitate seamless integration onto the platform.

Mmetla Masire, ODC managing director, said: “At Okavango Diamond Company, we believe that every diamond carries more than just its natural brilliance, it carries the story of its origin, its journey, and the people whose lives it touches along the way.

“By joining the Tracr platform, we are strengthening our commitment to transparency and ensuring that Botswana’s diamonds are recognised for the ethical legacy they represent. This step is not just about technology; it’s about trust, responsibility, and shaping a future where provenance is as valuable as the diamond itself.”

Wes Tucker, Tracr CEO, added: “We are delighted that Okavango Diamond Company has joined the Tracr platform. This is an exciting step forward as we continue to expand traceability across the diamond industry and increase the volume of supply on Tracr.

“We continue to have positive discussions with a range of diamond producers and suppliers, and we look forward to growing the share of global diamond supply that we trace on the platform. With regulators’ focus on provenance assurance only set to increase, and opportunities for differentiating diamonds based on their origin only set to grow, now is the time for diamond companies to explore how best to provide traceability.”

Since its inception, ODC has sold over 36 million carats and serves a global network of more than 660 registered customers.

The institute will also continue to accept laboratory-grown diamonds for evaluation and identification.

The revised GIA description system for laboratory-grown diamonds will confirm that the submitted item is a laboratory-grown diamond and whether it falls into one of two categories, ‘premium’ or ‘standard.’ 

The categories will be defined by a combination of metrics related to colour, clarity and finish. 

If the man-made diamond fails to achieve the minimum standard for quality, it will not receive a designation from GIA. 

Until the revised descriptive system for laboratory-grown diamonds is finalised, the current GIA services for laboratory-grown diamonds will continue to be available.   

GIA developed the universally accepted colour and clarity scales for natural diamonds in the 1940s to clearly communicate their characteristics and reduce consumer confusion. 

According to GIA, the change to how it describes the quality of laboratory-grown diamonds will help consumers understand the important differences in the two products’ origin, “ensuring their confidence and enabling them to make informed and educated purchase decisions”.

 Pricing and submission guidelines for the revised GIA service for laboratory-grown diamonds are in development and will be announced late in the third quarter. 

However, existing GIA reports for laboratory-grown diamonds remain valid.

Tom Moses, GIA executive vice president and chief laboratory and research officer, said: “Similar to other man-made gem materials, we anticipate the continued acceptance and popularity of laboratory-grown diamonds. 

“More than 95% of laboratory-grown diamonds entering the market fall into a very narrow range of colour and clarity. Because of that, it is no longer relevant for GIA to describe man-made diamonds using the nomenclature created for the continuum of color and clarity of natural diamonds.” 

Red List of Endangered Crafts is a bi-annual report listing traditional craft skills in the UK at risk of disappearing.

As a result of this, the Goldsmiths’ Centre and Goldsmiths’ Company are calling on the Government, industry and educators to work together to address the challenges.

The companies have called for an industry-led investment in research to understand the full scale of the skills crisis in the silversmithing and the allied trades, and where the opportunities are.

They also want industry-wide collaboration and a cohesive approach to apprenticeships, training and other routes to support careers in silversmithing and the allied trades.

This could come in the form of new, accessible, well-promoted and well-funded training and development pathways into silversmithing, from Year 9 (ages 13-14) onwards.

Lastly, they have called for government funding for businesses and employers working in the allied trades who want to train and develop people to have careers in the silver allied trades and an industry-wide public awareness campaign to understand how the art and skill of the silver allied trades contribute to British craft, culture, innovation, and design.

Peter Taylor, director of the Goldsmiths’ Centre, said: “The silver allied trades – which incorporates precious metalworking skills such as lost wax casting, wire drawing, buffing and polishing – have today been collectively classified as critically endangered skills for the first time. These precious handmaking skills, dating back to the bronze age, have almost vanished from our school curriculums and higher education programmes in the last decade.

“The craft and art of silversmithing and its allied trades is hidden in plain sight, from the F1 trophies hoisted at races throughout the season, to the teaspoons in our kitchen drawers, the silver jewellery we wear, and the striking sculptures that grace Britain’s train stations and public squares. The hand skills required to create each of these pieces quietly permeate our daily lives, we just don’t realise it.”