According to the WFDB, the rapid growth of lab-grown diamonds is reshaping the sector, particularly in the United States, where synthetic stones feature in most new engagement rings.

Dvash said that this trend poses a serious threat to the “value, image and future” of natural diamonds.

Speaking at the WFDB Presidents’ Meeting in June, he stated that industry leaders from producing countries, mining companies, diamond exchanges and retailers had pledged increased cooperation and financial backing to promote natural stones.

This includes support from De Beers, the Natural Diamond Council (NDC), and retail groups such as Signet and Chow Tai Fook.

The Luanda Accord, signed in June by African diamond-producing nations and industry bodies, commits signatories to contribute 1% of rough diamond revenue to a global marketing fund overseen by the NDC.

De Beers has also pledged further investment in education and advertising, while the NDC has launched a new website aimed at helping retail staff communicate the qualities of natural diamonds more effectively.

Additionally, the WFDB has launched its own campaign using original video content to highlight the “emotional and symbolic value of natural stones”.

Dvash described recent initiatives as a “concerted global effort” to return natural diamonds to “centre stage”.

He said: “The natural diamond is more than a product – it is a symbol. And its future depends on our unity.”

Kellie’s departure follows the signing of the Luanda Accord, which commits more diamond producers to support the promotion of natural diamonds through funding.

He has led the NDC for nearly seven years. Before joining the council, he worked as head of US marketing for Watches of Switzerland and held roles at retail brands including Champion Europe Group, Ralph Lauren and Pretty Polly.

In a LinkedIn post, Kellie said: “I have advised our board of directors that I will be stepping down from my position at the Natural Diamond Council at the end of 2025.

“I remain committed to the mission of the NDC through the remainder of the year, including the onboarding of new members and the launch of a successful new campaign in Q4.”

He added: “My plans after the NDC? To enjoy a life of retirement, spending more time with friends and family, and traveling more. Unless something exciting tempts me to do otherwise.”

The new offering aims to allow salespeople to be better informed and able to confidently and clearly distinguish the value propositions across natural diamonds, laboratory-grown diamonds, and diamond simulants to their customers.

The mobile-friendly content is designed to be quick, rich and condensed, featuring content from multiple sources, including videos, infographics, and self-quizzes.

It offers quick learning, teaching people how to answer 25+ frequently asked diamond questions from industry experts with informative videos ranging from 30 seconds to 3 minutes.

It also offers in-depth modules with 20–30-minute engaging and self-paced modules that empower learners to gain a comprehensive understanding of diamond values that extend beyond the 4Cs. Learners receive Certifications of Achievement for each module.

The Diamond Learning Center was born out of an education roundtable that recognised confusion and bias across several retail segments selling diamond jewellery.

The roundtable represented the entire value chain, including AGS, De Beers, Diamex, Fischer Diamonds, Gabriel & Co, GIA, IDMA, Jewelers of America, Jewelers Mutual, Premier Gem, and Shane Co.

Price Blanchard, chief customer officer, Shane Co, said: “It has been wonderful working with the Natural Diamond Council to create tools and education to help train our jewellery consultants on the history, allure and benefits of natural diamonds and the unique differences between natural and laboratory-grown diamonds.

“The lack of education in the industry has created a bias towards laboratory-grown diamonds and a more educated sales team will help customers understand the rarity and value of natural diamonds so they have a well-rounded education to help them pick the best diamond for them. By educating customers, we expect to see more natural diamond sales.”

Furthermore, overall jewellery sales across all product segments grew 5.2% in 2024.

Round diamonds still accounted for 82% of centre stones, oval cuts featured in 165 of engagement rings and 7% of non-bridal jewellery.

Marquise cuts saw the biggest increase in share, growing 8.6% up to 1.6% market share, while emerald cuts increased 6.4% to 1.2% market share.Princess cuts took the biggest market share hit, declining 6.4%, while cushion cuts also declined, falling 5.7%.

Alongside this, consumers opted for bigger diamonds, with 15% opting for a diamond between 1.00 and 1.04 carats, 11% opting for a 1.50-1.59 carat diamond and 10% getting a 2.00-2.24 carat diamond.

The 2.00-2.24 carat diamond category saw year-on-year growth of 18% while the sale of 1.50-1.59 carat diamonds grew 9%. Meanwhile, the sale of 0.70-0.79 carat diamonds took the biggest sales hit, falling 11%, while 1.00-1.04 carat diamond sales declined 8%.

The data from the NDC also found that 33% of natural diamond sales were bridal jewellery with the other 67% being other fine diamond jewellery.

The average price of an engagement ring was $6,750 (£5354) and 62% of them featured a round cut diamond while 16% featured an oval cut.

Heather Ingraham, divisional merchandise director of jewellery, bridal and diamonds at Hyde Park Jewelers, said: “I don’t believe there will ever be a day when the desire for a round diamond doesn’t outshine other shapes.”

The platform is aimed to showcase the unique beauty and rarity of natural diamonds, and the ethical responsibility inherent within the global natural diamond industry.

The launch comes after NDC’s global ambassador Lily James experienced this through two discovery trips.

Last week, NDC and James embarked on a discovery adventure of the Northwest Territories (NWT) of Canada.

Kristina Buckley Kayel, managing director and CMO, North America at NDC, said: “Our mission is to inspire and educate consumers on the unique values of natural diamonds and the positive impact and commitments of the industry.

“The new framework of Real. Rare. Responsible cohesively ties in our mission throughout NDC’s editorial destination, celebrity ambassador and sustainability global advertising campaigns, as well as all social channels. In doing so, these real, billion-year-old finite geological marvels, and the responsible and positive impact of the industry are conveyed consistently across all consumer touchpoints directly and through our retail partners.”

Both Prager and Perry will continue to serve on the executive committee while overseeing the transition of their responsibilities to its other members.

Additionally, Prager will also continue to serve as chairman of the Natural Diamond Council (NDC) until a successor is elected by the NDC board.

He joined De Beers in 2006 and has led the transformation of the De Beers purpose and brand.

Reflecting on David’s contribution to De Beers, Al Cook, chief executive officer, De Beers Group said: “Throughout his time at De Beers, David’s insight, creativity and leadership have propelled us forward.

“He transformed our brand and marketing strategy; managed complex issues in a way that built trust with stakeholders and strengthened our reputation around the world; and he designed a sustainability framework that has protected the natural world, improved people’s lives and deepened our clients’ connection to our diamonds. I would like to personally thank him for his outstanding contribution to the company.”
Perry, on the other hand, joined De Beers in 2002 and has worked in operational and strategic leadership roles across the value chain.

On Perry, Cook said: “From tackling technical mining challenges to predicting the future of diamond demand, Ryan has contributed outstandingly across the De Beers Group.

“He has always been effective in bringing different parties to work together successfully, leading change programmes during the global pandemic, leading strategy development and leading the creation of the Diamonds for Development Fund in Botswana.”

Additionally, the group announced the appointment of Tom Johnson to the position of general counsel, with effect from 1 January 2024.

In this role, Johnson will join the executive committee, overseeing the company’s Legal and Company Secretariat functions.

Johnson is based in the UK and first joined De Beers as part of Element Six in 2016.

Cook added: “I am very pleased to appoint Tom as General Counsel for De Beers. In his current role as head of legal and company secretary, Tom has demonstrated an unparalleled understanding of the complexities that come with being a 135-year-old company with a global footprint, and of the opportunities we have to simplify the company.

“He has personally led the management of legal issues and negotiations in Botswana and across our portfolio. I am confident that Tom is the right person to shape a streamlined focus to our corporate structure, while maintaining our proud position as an ethical leader of the diamond industry. I look forward to welcoming him to the executive committee.”

As part of the new campaign actress Lily James has signed on to be an ambassador for the brand.

The new campaign aims to celebrate the versatility of natural diamonds and the promotional shoot with James comprises four looks styled with a variety of natural diamonds.

The campaign will be amplified by the NDC’s global retail partners including luxury independent retailers such as Razny, Hamilton Jewelers and London Jewelers.

David Kellie, CEO of NDC, said: “The talent, integrity, and authenticity Lily brings to the table are the perfect attributes to represent natural diamonds. It was incredible visiting Botswana for the first time with her last year and now reconnecting in New York to shoot this campaign that will continue to support so many of our retail partners is truly exciting.”

James added: “After visiting Botswana and seeing the positive impact the diamond mining industry has on the surrounding communities and ecosystems, and learning about what goes into sustaining them, it made me want to be even more intentional with the diamond jewellery I wear.

“For me, wearing natural diamonds is about celebrating the sentiment behind who gave me the diamonds and the special moment I think of when I wear them. It was so special to launch my NDC ambassadorship with the To Treasure Now and Forever campaign in my hometown of London. Now, to have the chance to shoot this new campaign in New York City, my home away from home, is a dream come true.”

The NDC is a global organisation whose members’ operations span four continents and ten countries including Canada, South Africa, and Botswana.

The company has also made initial financial investment, the WFDB will work together with the NDC to identify ways in which the “values of natural diamonds can reach more consumers”.

The WFDB stated that it believed more stakeholders needed to strategically invest in the industry.

It also “greatly values” the unique role of the NDC in bringing the story of natural diamonds to consumers.

Yoram Dvash, WFDB president, said: “Today’s consumers have more choices than ever before and are heavily influenced by social media and digital platforms. It is crucial to present the natural diamond industry in a creative and authentic way. We believe that
the NDC is successfully doing just that, and we want to support this very important work.”

David Kellie, CEO of the NDC, added: “We are very pleased to partner with the WFDB, which represents diamond traders all over the world. We believe that together we can find many ways to collaborate that will benefit the industry as a whole. Collectively we see considerable growth opportunities ahead, and we will redouble efforts to inspire and move consumers.”

The WFDB is an association of the world’s major diamond bourses and is the official organisation of the international diamond trading sector.

The NDC is an information platform based on the world of natural diamonds through its Only Natural Diamonds platform.

The updated portal aims to enable all purchasers of diamond verification instruments to browse through the directory, understand the features and analyse the results of the new series of Assure testing.

The Assure 2.0 portal and its directory showcase the results of DVI testing on an updated Assure sample of natural diamonds, synthetic diamonds and diamond simulants in a range of sizes.

David Kellie, CEO, Natural Diamond Council, said: “At the centre of consumer protection is the ability to distinguish between natural diamonds, laboratory-grown diamonds, and diamond simulants.

“The success of the Assure Showcase in London demonstrates the shared commitment to ensuring consumer confidence across the jewellery industry. The UK has taken a strong stance on this, which is positive for the natural diamond industry. It is a positive development that will move the industry forward in a way that will benefit everyone.”

Alan Cohen, president, London Diamond Bourse, added: “We were delighted with the turnout from the trade and independent jewellers, many travelling across country and from overseas to attend.

“The feedback received was positive with many commenting on the wide variety of machines available to suit any size organisation and budget. We are expecting to see an uptake in the prevalence of Diamond Verification Instruments in the British jewellery trade because of the Assure Showcase.”

Over a thousand exhibiting brands will be from 9^th to 13^th September at Vicenzaoro September, the international gold and jewellery show organised by Italian Exhibition Group (IEG) to be held at Vicenza Exhibition Centre accompanied by VO Vintage (9^th – 11^th September). Speakers at the next edition will include key figures from the industry. The authoritative voices of entrepreneurs, institutions, thought leaders and key global jewellery influencers such as Guido Grassi Damiani, President of Damiani Group and the Assogemme Ethics Committee, Julien Stervinou, Head of Sustainable Innovation Lab for Watches & Jewellery at Kering, Iris Van der Veken, Executive Director of Watch & Jewellery Initiative, Lynn Yeager, writer for Vogue USA and the New York Times, Marianne Fisher and Ida Faerber, who represent the fourth generation of two global brands in the antique and vintage jewellery trade.

REAL IS BEAUTIFUL, DAMIANI´S WORDS

In the global jewellery market, where the word technology is practically synonymous with ´synthetic´, how can we unequivocally explain the difference between ´real´ and ´fake´? At Vicenzaoro September, on Saturday 10th September, Guido Grassi Damiani will be providing the answer, giving full value to the professionalism of Italian jewellers. The president of Damiani Group and the Assogemme Ethics Committee will be taking part in the Assogemme talk ´Real is beautiful. The importance and value of natural diamonds for Italian jewellery´ with an introduction by the Association´s President, Paolo Cesari and Federorafi President, Claudia Piaserico.

In the afternoon of Friday 9th September, Vicenzaoro´s main stage will see Jerome Favier, CEO of Damiani Group, presenting an overview of the market challenges and strategic choices that will leave their mark on the company´s future development.

THE ITALIAN SCENARIO ACCORDING TO THE INTESA SANPAOLO REPORT

Stefania Trenti, Head of Industry Research at Intesa Sanpaolo´s Studies and Research Department, and Augusto Ungarelli, President of Vendorafa Lombardi and past president of Club degli Orafi Italia, will offer a snapshot of the state-of-the-art of the Italian gold and jewellery supply chain. The talked entitled ´The Italian gold and jewellery sector, a complex and uncertain scenario´, organised in collaboration with Club degli Orafi Italia and scheduled for the opening day on Friday 9th September, will present the results of the sector research conducted by Intesa Sanpaolo´s Study Centre.

TRENDVISION: THE METAVERSE IS THERE

The gold-jewellery industry, like other global supply chains, is also involved in the digital economy, which is amplifying its creativity and sales channels with blockchain technologies and the web´s evolution into the metaverse. Outlining its medium-term effects on Saturday 10th September will be ´Chromaverse. How the Metaverse and NFT´s are affecting Consumers and the Jewellery sector´, the Trendvison Jewellery + Forecasting event conducted by Paola De Luca, creative director and co-founder with IEG, during the preview presentation of the new Trendbook 2024+. Guests will include Rebecca Forster, President of Hearts on Fire, Angie Marei, founder & fine jewellery designer of Marei New York, Anna Adriani, marketing director of Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS in Venice, Naman Sidharth, co-founder of NFJ Labs, and the return to Vicenzaoro of Lynn Yeager, contributor for Vogue USA and the New York Times.

CIBJO SEMINARS WILL DEAL WITH GLOBAL INDUSTRY CHALLENGES

´A new paradigm for marketing diamond jewellery: shifting the focus from men to women´ will be the first of two seminars organised by CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, both scheduled for Sunday 11th September. The focus will be on the new social roles that women are asserting in the purchase of jewellery and precious stones, with an introduction by President Gaetano Cavalieri and speeches by Julien Stervinou, Head of Sustainable Innovation Lab for Watches & Jewelry at Kering, Mina El Hadraoui, Director of the Natural Diamond Council France, journalist Bérengère Treussard from Like AB, and moderators Edward Johnson (Edward Johnson Consulting) and Elle Hill (Hill & Co). The second event, ´Developing a global approach to jewellery supply chain regulation´, will focus on the opportunities of regulating the jewellery supply chain on a global scale. Speakers will include Iris Van der Veken, Executive Director of Watch & Jewellery Initiative, Tiffany Steven, President and CEO of the Jewelers´ Vigilance Committee USA, Sara Yood, Deputy General Counsel of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee USA, and John Mulligan, Market Relations & Climate Change Lead of World Gold Council.

YOUNG DESIGNERS: ROOM FOR TALENT

On Sunday 11th September, Ellen Joncheere, CEO of HRD Antwerp, and Gaetano Cavalieri, President of CIBJO, which, together with Italian Exhibition Group, is sponsoring the initiative, will be presenting the new edition of the HRD Design Awards to be hosted at Vicenzaoro January 2023, through creative ideas for improving the sector developed by three young talents, finalists at the competition´s previous editions.

VINTAGE AND ANTIQUE JEWELLERY, AMONG PAST AND MODERNITY

The iconic value of jewellery told by those with three generations of research and trading in unique pieces behind them, items that make up jewellery´s history. On Saturday 10th September, Marianne Fisher at the helm of Paul Fisher Inc. and Ida Faerber of Faerber Collection will be talking with Amanda Triossi, jewellery historian, author and curator, and Marie-Cécile Cisamolo, Director Jewellery Specialist at Sotheby´s, in the talk ´Vintage and antique jewellery: among past and modernity´, curated and moderated by jewellery business consultant, Donatella Zappieri.

This in-depth B2B look at vintage jewellery, dedicated to professional operators, will enrich the full programme of talks and seminars open to the public of VO Vintage. From 9th to 11th September, the IEG event will welcome experts, collectors and lovers of fine vintage watches and jewellery, such as Ugo Pancani, Sandro Fratini and Bruno Bergamaschi, in the foyer on the first floor of Vicenza Expo Centre.

These events will also be live-streamed on IEG´s The Jewellery Golden Cloud platform with a simultaneous translation service. The updated programme can be found on www.vicenzaoro.com.