According to the WFDB, the rapid growth of lab-grown diamonds is reshaping the sector, particularly in the United States, where synthetic stones feature in most new engagement rings.

Dvash said that this trend poses a serious threat to the “value, image and future” of natural diamonds.

Speaking at the WFDB Presidents’ Meeting in June, he stated that industry leaders from producing countries, mining companies, diamond exchanges and retailers had pledged increased cooperation and financial backing to promote natural stones.

This includes support from De Beers, the Natural Diamond Council (NDC), and retail groups such as Signet and Chow Tai Fook.

The Luanda Accord, signed in June by African diamond-producing nations and industry bodies, commits signatories to contribute 1% of rough diamond revenue to a global marketing fund overseen by the NDC.

De Beers has also pledged further investment in education and advertising, while the NDC has launched a new website aimed at helping retail staff communicate the qualities of natural diamonds more effectively.

Additionally, the WFDB has launched its own campaign using original video content to highlight the “emotional and symbolic value of natural stones”.

Dvash described recent initiatives as a “concerted global effort” to return natural diamonds to “centre stage”.

He said: “The natural diamond is more than a product – it is a symbol. And its future depends on our unity.”

Following its 2024 Serti sur Vide collection, which explored negative space, the latest offering shifts focus to “fullness”, using gold as a sculptural medium in a series of 21 designs. 

These include reworkings of Repossi’s original Blast cuff and new additions such as chokers, earrings and cocktail rings.

The Paris-based jeweller said the collection reflects its ongoing interest in fluid forms, ethnic inspirations and contemporary art references. 

Spiral motifs and continuous thread forms run throughout the pieces, with design details referencing the jewellery traditions of the Masai, Miao and Indonesian archipelago cultures.

Repossi also cited influences from Japanese aesthetics, particularly the concept of Enso, a hand-drawn circle symbolising harmony and eternity, and from artists such as Cy Twombly and Bernar Venet. 

Both are known for abstract, gestural works that explore “rhythm, volume and spatial movement”.

The new pieces include a plastron necklace set with 15 diamonds totalling 6.77 carats and 720 pavé diamonds (4.05 carats), said to take 250 hours to complete. 

Other highlights include a sculptural cocktail ring and signet ring featuring a thread of gold set with pear-shaped diamonds.

According to Repossi, the collection pays tribute to its designs from the 1980s, including the Cœur and Dis-moi Oui! rings. 

These are reinterpreted with modernised forms but retain what the brand describes as a “Riviera glamour and bold use of volume”.

The company, founded in 1957, marks nearly 70 years of jewellery production this year. 

In celebration, the brand has reinterpreted the golden thread, which is the foundation of the Blast collection. 

The collection centres on hand-sculpted gold threads with mirror-polish finishes and architectural settings. 

The brand’s signature pear-shaped stones are set using a raised ‘Eiffel Tower’ mount to emphasise lightness and dimension.

The maison’s family jewellery tradition is inherited from the origins of the house, founded in Turin by Costantino Repossi, who, after studying industrial design and discovering a strong taste for the Art Deco movement, opened his first boutique.

The Cove collection marks what the company describes as its first fully traceable jewellery range. 

It includes necklaces, bracelets and an earring made with handmade Larvikite beads and sterling silver elements.

The stone, which is recognised as Norway’s national stone, is supplied by Lundh’s quarries and certified to provide full transparency across the supply chain. 

All metal components are produced from certified recycled materials, which the company claims cut the environmental impact by more than 90% compared with virgin metals.

The launch also includes updated versions of Tom Wood’s signet rings, now set with a new variety of Larvikite in a near-black tone with inclusions of blue sapphire.

Mona Jensen, founder and creative director, said: “We are proud to present our first 100% traceable collection, a milestone that embodies our dedication to transparency and responsibility. Being a brand of purpose affects everything we do, it sets direction for the products we create, our ways of working, the spaces we build and the people we work with.

“To know where everything comes from and who was involved all the way until the finished product is a quite unusual thing in a tradition based and conservative industry. We would like to forge new standards for responsibility and hope to inspire others to do the same.”

Highlights include the York Rose Brontë ring, featuring a diamond-set Yorkshire Rose in full bloom in 18ct rose gold, 18ct yellow gold or platinum.

The name was purposefully chosen by Bradley’s Jewellers York owner, Kay Bradley, to celebrate the incredible achievements of Yorkshire’s most famed female writers, Charlotte, Anne and Emily Brontë.

The collection has also been updated with a new gentleman’s signet ring that is custom-engraved with a Yorkshire Rose and crafted in either yellow, white or rose gold.

The collection also includes the York Rose Tiara, set with more than 1,000 fancy-cut diamonds weighing upwards of 10 carats in recycled 9ct white gold.

The York Rose Tiara will soon form part of The Seasons, a unique series of four tiaras that celebrate Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter in Yorkshire.

The first to be launched represents the Summer, while a soon-to-be-revealed York Daffodil Tiara will pay homage to the optimism and renewal of the spring months.

A third piece, the Rainbow Hope Tiara, will recognise autumn as a time of harvest, abundance and accomplishment in vibrant coloured gemstones.

The York Rose collection was first unveiled in 2022 as a tribute to Kay Bradley’s personal and professional home.

Bradley said: “As a business, we pride ourselves on always reaching for the next jewellery milestone. Introducing a Yorkshire-inspired tiara seemed like the most sensational and opulent next step. These special items are often found in private collections as treasured heirlooms, so I wanted to create something similar not only for Bradley’s Jewellers York but for the whole of Yorkshire.

“I feel strongly that as an independent jeweller, we should always be surprising our customers with something new, different and inspiring. We’ve updated the York Rose collection with new pieces, but I don’t think any of our loyal collectors anticipated a tiara was in the works.”

Affirm underwrites every individual transaction before making a real-time credit decision and only approves consumers following an assessment that evidences their ability to repay.

Consumers can choose from customised payment options, with term lengths ranging from weeks to years, all without any late fees or hidden charges.

According to Taylor and Heart, for the jewellery sector, offering more flexible payment options without the burden of late fees or hidden charges, makes spreading the cost of a significant purchase or big occasion “more manageable, alleviating financial stress for consumers”.

Affirm’s expansion to the UK will enable it to build upon its growing network of 50 million consumers and over 335,000 merchants, including some of the world’s biggest jewellery retailers such as Signet’s Kay Jewellers, Zales and Tiffany and Co.

Ruth Spratt, UK country manager of Affirm, said: “Buying that special someone the jewellery they have always wanted should be a memory to cherish forever. That’s why we are thrilled to partner with Taylor & Heart and Affinity Fine Jewellers to offer consumers more payment choice when buying that once-in-a-lifetime treasure, making it simpler and stress-free with no hidden or late fees.

“Our pro-consumer financial products go beyond short-term payment plans, offering greater flexibility and helping customers better manage their finances. We look forward to continuing Affirm’s UK network of consumers and merchant partners and empowering consumers to celebrate life’s bigger moments responsibly and without financial strain.”

Handmade and inspired by nature and celestial motifs, the collection invites wearers to mix, match, and layer each piece.

The collection features pieces such as the Athena Amazonite Necklace, Cancer Zodiac Necklace, Cosmos Ring, Dune Hoops, and Boheme Emerald Hoops.

The Athena Amazonite Necklace features raw cut amazonite stones, with a single textured teardrop charm.

Meanwhile, the Cancer Zodiac Necklace, crafted in hand carved gold, the necklace is designed to “celebrate your cosmic identity”.

The Cosmos Ring Harness is a hand carved signet ring, and is fully adjustable to suit any ring stack.

Additionally, the Dune Hoops is studded with mini cubic zirconia and pearl studs, while the Boheme Emerald Hoops is inspired by ancient Indian carvings. These bohemian hoops feature a rounded subtle emerald.

Inspired by Sotheby’s signature blue, the collection’s razor blade motif is reimagined in 18-carat yellow gold, featuring a signet ring, chain necklace, stud earring, and a bangle adorned with pavé blue sapphires.

The new capsule collection is displayed alongside the original 2023 lineup of yellow gold and pearl pieces that first launched the collaboration.

Rendered in 18-carat yellow gold and pavé blue sapphires, the four-piece collection, much like both brand’s main lines, is designed for all.

The collection has been designed by Hannah Martin and Guy Berryman, Coldplay bassist and founder of fashion label Applied Art Forms.

Highlights include a Razor Wristband, taking inspiration from the hospital ID-tag with its “evocation of the circularity of life, is transformed into a modern heirloom in a fine yellow gold bangle”.

The razor blade motif is also featured in a signature necklace presented in yellow gold or set with two blue sapphires, designed to be worn alone or layered.

This motif is also seen in two boldly crafted ring styles: The Razor Ring Taper in plain yellow gold and another in sapphires.

In contrast, the Dog Tag Stud Earring features a sapphire-edged detailing, and can be paired with the Vanitas Safety Pin Earring in gold and pearl for extra drama.

Martin said: “The debut collection at Hong Kong’s Sotheby’s Maison embodies the essence of A Vanitas, blending heritage with avant-garde elements inspired by the Dutch vanitas tradition.

“With a vision to infuse heirlooms with defiance, I aim to craft pieces that are historically rooted yet rebellious—fresh and charged with contemporary spirit. When Guy and I began this creative journey, we sought to create objects that not only adorn but also ignite conversations about the beauty of seizing the moment.”

Paul Redmayne, senior vice president for luxury sales of Sotheby’s, added: “I have been a huge admirer of Hannah’s boundary-pushing creations ever since I was introduced to her work six years ago.

“A classically trained goldsmith who learnt her craft in Cartier’s Parisian ateliers, she doesn’t just re-write the traditional rule book when it comes to design, theme and aesthetic; she dispenses with it altogether. It is the singular energy of positivity and love, deeply embedded in her practice, that we are excited to share with audiences in Hong Kong.”

The new collection is a curated selection of earrings and rings with “clean lines” and a “modern aesthetic”.

At the core of the collection is the Chain Ring and the Jolie Earrings, both made with 18K yellow gold. The pieces are designed to mimic chain-like links.

Meanwhile, the Pyramid Ring pays homage to Egyptian culture and is a contemporary openwork design that mirrors the architectural brilliance of the ancient pyramids. Meticulously handcrafted, the ring features a pyramid shape.

The Fusion Ring features geometric framed rectangles, and can be worn solo or stacked for a layered look. The range also includes the Hexagon Earrings symbolising “connection” and “unity”.

Lastly, for those looking for something personalised, the Brady Signet Ring, also handcrafted in 18K gold, can be engraved with initials.

Amany Afify, principal founder of Anty, said: “Everform is a collection for those who value authenticity and self-expression, who see style as a limitless canvas to be worn and shared. The Everform Collection is an extension of your identity—made for you, exactly as you are.

“This collection is designed for the modern wearer—someone who believes that style knows no boundaries and who celebrates the power of connection.”

Its same store sales fell 2% for the 10 weeks ended 11 January 11, 2025.

Signet Jewellers stated that although its engagement sales were within expectations and its average unit retail (AUR) increased in both bridal and fashion, its fashion gifting underperformed as consumers “gravitated to lower price points even more than anticipated in a continued competitive environment”.

As a result, the group has revised its Q4 guidance, now projecting total sales to range between $2.32bn and $2.34bn (£1.89bn and £1.90bn), down from the initially reported estimate of $2.38bn to $2.46bn (£1.94bn to £2bn).

Same-store sales are also expected to decline 2% to 2.5%, compared with the previous expectation of flat to 3% growth.

Additionally, adjusted operating profit is expected to be between $337m and $347m (£270.4m and £282.3m) compared with $397m to $427m (£323.02m to £347.4m).

Lastly, the group’s EBITDA is expected to be between $381m to $391m (£310m to £318.1m), down from the original $441m to $471m (£358.8m to 383.2m).

JK Symancyk, chief executive officer, said: “While there were positives in the underlying business performance during Holiday, I believe we have the opportunity to reshape our customer-facing strategies in the areas of marketing, product design, and assortment innovation.

“I see meaningful potential to unlock shareholder value through the strength of both our brand portfolio and financial foundation. We can build on our industry leading position in bridal while dramatically accelerating our reach into the larger fashion categories of self-purchase and gifting to drive sustainable organic growth.”

Crafted with a textured band and contrasting smooth polished surface, the new unisex signet style ring encapsulates the essence of Chinese heritage through intricately hand-written ancient Chinese calligraphy of the Snake.

Each ring is handcrafted in London and adopts design techniques from the founder Loveness Lee’s childhood whilst growing up in China.

Moving to London from China at the age of 18 to study jewellery design, Lee was driven by “a desire to infuse her cultural roots into her love for jewellery”.

The Snake Chinese Zodiac Signet Ring is priced at £175 and will be available in store and at LovenessLee.com from today (8 January 2025) in a limited batch.

Lee, founder and creative director, said: “Designing this ring was a way for me to feel closer to home, and in the process, I found myself opening up to my team with stories I’ve never told of my life, my family and my friends back in China.

“The Year of the Snake is believed to offer opportunities for enhanced finances and love, for those who stay adaptable and look for creative solutions. This ring is for all who celebrate the new lunar new year and want to take a piece of Chinese fortune with them everyday.”