The Yorkshire Rose collection is based on one of the earliest designs created by founders William and Julia Shaw, who began their jewellery-making business in Barnsley in 1988.

The pieces will be handmade in the company’s Dodworth workshop and available in a range of precious metals with options for customisation.

Each item in the collection will be hallmarked by Sheffield Assay Office and accompanied by packaging designed specifically for the range. The business has also worked with manufacturers Curteis and Dahlinger to supply chains and presentation boxes respectively.

The launch will take place both in-store and online and will feature an invitation-only event, with gift bags for attendees.

The event will also mark the start of a charity raffle, with proceeds going to Barnsley Hospice and Barnsley RSPCA. The first prize is a white gold and diamond Yorkshire Rose necklace.

WJ Shaw was founded by husband-and-wife jewellers William and Julia Shaw and is now run alongside their daughter Heather Shaw. The company specialises in bespoke design, manufacturing and repairs, and operates with a team of six staff across sales and jewellery production.

The occasion was also attended by members of the British Hallmarking Council.

The first hallmark struck at the new facility was a stunning triple row diamond-set band fully handcrafted by Brown and Newirth.

The band was made for Wendy Laing, owner of Laings, one of Brown & Newirth’s longest-standing customers.

Laing, owner of Laings Jewellers said: “I’m thrilled with my stunning new ring – a generous gift from my husband. Knowing that my ring was the first piece assayed at the new sub-office adds even more sentimental value to it. On behalf of Laings, we would like to congratulate the group on this fantastic new assay facility.”

Jerry Anderson, CEO of AG Group, added: “The official opening of our in-house Assay Office is a proud moment for our company. By incorporating an assay sub-office into our manufacturing process, we are uniquely positioned for businesses seeking a professional and reliable hallmarking service.”

Brown and Newirth was acquired by bridal manufacturer Allied Gold back in July 2024.

The move follows a historic agreement with the Sheffield Assay Office, marking the first-ever fine jewellery manufacturing Sheffield sub-office.

The partnership has received full approval from the British Hallmarking Council, with operations set to begin early January 2025.

The range of wedding and engagement rings, chain, and fine diamond jewellery from Allied Gold and Brown and Newirth will now be assayed at the new facility.

Jerry Anderson, CEO of AG Group, said: “We are incredibly proud to have received approval from the British Hallmarking Council to open a Sheffield Assay sub-office at our new headquarters. This will significantly streamline our operations, boosting efficiency and reducing lead times for our trade partners. We are excited to unveil this state-of-the-art hallmarking facility and to deepen our relationship with Ashley and the Sheffield Assay Office team.”

Ashley Carson, assay master and CEO, added: “This is a thrilling new chapter for the Sheffield Assay Office. Our partnership with the AG Group allows us to expand our hallmarking services and continue delivering the exceptional standards we’re renowned for.

“As the jewellery industry evolves, we’re committed to supporting British manufacturing with the same precision and integrity that Sheffield has been known for over centuries. I would also like to extend my thanks to the British Hallmarking Council for their efficient approval allowing us to proceed smoothly with this initiative.”

The event will take place at the Sheffield Assay Office on 9 October 2023 with a keynote presentation from Jessica Flinn-Allen, founder of Jessica Flinn Jewellery.

The event comprises a series of talks, tours and networking opportunities.

• Introduction from Ashley Carson, assay master at Sheffield Assay Office
• Introduction to the National Association of Jewellers from Ben Massey, CEO
• Keynote talk from Jessica Flinn-Allen on how to run a successful jewellery business
• A tour of the Sheffield Assay Office
• Meet the NAJ team
• A tour of Sheffield Assay Office’s silver collection and library, celebrating its 250th year
• Networking and refreshments

Massey, NAJ CEO, said: “We are delighted to bring the Striking Futures event back to Sheffield following its successful debut last year. It’s the perfect opportunity to get practical advice on starting a business or career in the jewellery trade and learning more about the help and services both the NAJ and Sheffield Assay Office can provide.”

Ashley Carson, assay master, added: “It’s wonderful to work with the NAJ again on such a worthwhile event. We’re excited to showcase what the Sheffield Assay Office can provide jewellery businesses and the guidance and educational opportunities available.”

The Sheffield Assay Office has announced that it has achieved re-certification to the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), marking Sheffield as the only UK Assay Office to be a certified member.

The RJC now has over 1,600 members worldwide and is the world’s “leading” standard setting organisation for the jewellery and watch industry. The RJC promotes standards that “underpin people’s trust” in the worldwide jewellery and watch supply chain.

The Assay Office said high standards and integrity are core to business, and that sustainability is a journey of continuous improvement, and therefore the RJC certification is important to the role that it plays.

The RJC unites companies who believe that responsible business (without causing harm to people or the plant) is good business, and said that this can only be achieved by working in partnership with each other.

Sheffield Assay Office said: “In being RJC accredited, we have demonstrated that standards across our business achieve the high levels required. These cover Human Rights, Labour Rights, Health and Safety, Product Integrity and the environment and ensuring we have all the relevant policies and procedures in place across the business.

“We will continue to strive forward and consider our people, environment and community in everything we do.”

The event will take place on 3 November, and features a hallmarking presentation from Kerry Gregory of Gemmology Books, a tour of the Sheffield Assay offices, and roundtable discussions on a range of topics pertinent to the industry.

NAJ’s principal officer, Ben Massey, said: “We’re excited to collaborate with the Sheffield Assay Office to deliver an educational industry event that will provide great value, no matter your experience in the jewellery sector.

“By attending the event, members of the Association will be able to ensure they are getting the most out of their membership. Individuals looking to get into or progress in the Jewellery
the community will also be able to seek advice and guidance. We also welcome businesses that aren’t yet members to learn more about the Association and Sheffield Assay Office, respectively.”

Ashley Carson, assay master at Sheffield Assay Office, added: “Having recently joined as members of the National Association of Jewellers, we are delighted to work closely with them on this project. We’re excited to showcase what the Sheffield Assay Office can provide jewellery businesses and vital educational opportunities for students.”

The Sheffield Assay Office has announced that it has recently become a member of the National Association of Jewellers (NAJ), in a bid to engage “more fully and effectively” with the trade as a whole.

The Sheffield Assay Office is currently looking at a number of collaborations with other NAJ members, which will reportedly be announced in due course, and is working with the NAJ team on raising the perception and awareness of the office.

The office will also work with the NAJ on the education side of the industry to maintain and grow talent within the industry, and raise awareness of the potential and importance of British design and manufacturing through lower levels of education.

Additionally, the NAJ said that all four UK Assay Offices are fundamental to the trade, and it will be hosting events open to members and non-members over the coming months, starting with The Sheffield Assay Office in November.

The association added that it is “key” to raise the awareness of hallmarking and its importance as a form of confidence to the consumer when purchasing their jewellery.

Ben Massey, principal officer, said: “We’re delighted to welcome Sheffield Assay Office into the NAJ membership community. The association’s relationship with UK Assay Offices, both individually and collectively, is something we are looking forward to developing over the next 18 months to really champion hallmarking and associated services.

“The NAJ’s strategy is focused on shaping professional excellence in jewellery businesses and their people, ensuring jewellery retailers, manufacturers and suppliers, valuers and designers are legally compliant, visible and profitable and also encouraging responsible behaviours.”

The jewellery industry is expected to rebound and grow globally between 3-4% over the next four to five years, with demand expected to increase from younger consumers and domestic markets with less international travel taking place, according to The Sheffield Assay Office.

During the pandemic, the jewellery industry saw revenues globally decline by 10-15%. Now, there are three factors which are expected to emerge in particular due to a “shift” in the market, including an increase in branded jewellery, more digital sales, and a more sustainability focus

Large lifestyle global brands are now adding jewellery to their collections or expanding their current ranges. Digital sales have also continued to increase with many retailers reporting double digit growth in this area.

The Assay Office said that digital sales are heavily driven by younger consumers as they are more accepting of this being the generally accepted way of purchasing. 

Additionally, sustainability will reportedly become an “increasingly important” element of the purchasing decision, with consumers more aware of traceability and transparency throughout the supply chain and are looking and researching this in all aspects of their lives.

The Sheffield Assay Office said: “It is great to see people back on the high street and attending all the sporting events and festivals which we have all missed. 

“There is always an element of excitement as to the latest fashion and what the celebrities will be wearing and jewellery is a large focus of this. It is therefore positive that research is demonstrating that the jewellery industry has a bright and sparkling future.”

It comes after prime minister Boris Johnson announced that the country would enter a nationwide lockdown from 5 November to 2 December. 

The Edinburgh Assay Office in Scotland is exempt from lockdown, and will also continue to operate in the run-up to Christmas.

However, the Goldmsith’s Company Assay Office in London, said: “We are pleased to announce that we can remain open under new national restrictions which come into effect on 5 November.  We will make regular updates throughout the developing situation.

“We will continue to follow COVID-secure guidelines to protect customers, visitors and workers. We ask that customers do not send work into Assay if the items have come into contact with anyone who has, or is showing symptoms of, Covid-19. 

It added: “Government guidelines state that the virus can live up to around 72 hours when it is felt the risk from any contaminated surface would significantly decrease. Therefore please wait for this period to lapse before sending items that could potentially be contaminated.

“Staff members are at high risk with numerous packets transferred to us every day. A reminder that, as a precautionary measure for our staff, we can no longer accept cash at the counters.”

The office added that it will be unable to amend any priority service packet detail in a bid to streamline its service at this time.

Ashley Carson, assay master and CEO at the Sheffield Assay Office said: “We are now preparing for a second lockdown from Thursday 5th November. The Office will remain open and we will continue to support the trade across both Hallmarking and Analytical Services.

“I would ask for your patience and understanding throughout this difficult time, as although my staff are working flat out, inevitably we are losing personnel to either positive COVID-19 tests or through them having to self-isolate due to Track & Trace.”

Meanwhile, the Birmingham Assay Office said it will continue to operate across all of its trading divisions during lockdown, adding that current lead times for all services remain unchanged at present, adding that “if turnaround times need to be extended, we will advise you at the appropriate time”. 

It added: “Parcels will continue to be despatched on the relevant due dates, however, if your business is closing and you would prefer us to retain your parcel during the lockdown, please notify us as soon as possible by emailing customerservice@theassayoffice.co.uk. 

Likewise, if you wish to change the despatch address, please notify us.”

All operating updates including opening hours, and service adaptations, are listed on their websites.

The British Hallmarking Council confirmed that opening hours and arrangements are now being “managed carefully in line with government advice to ensure the welfare of staff and the public”.

The Birmingham Assay Office confirmed that its operating days from the week commencing 18 May will be Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Friday. 

Its operations will continue in a “safe environment” with the use of skeleton staff for its hallmarking, gem lab and AnchorCert Pro testing services.  

If customers wish to deliver a parcel in person, its customer service counter will operate between 10am and 2pm on the days that it is open. Strict social distancing measures will be put in place at the counter, and only card payments will be accepted. 

Meanwhile, the Edinburgh Assay Office has been operating a resumed hallmarking service since 28 April, and continues to provide a limited service using a skeleton team made up entirely of volunteer staff. 

The office remains open daily for deliveries by courier and post from 8.30am until 2.00pm, though customers wishing to visit are advised to contact the office in advance.

From today (18 May), the London Assay Office will also be accepting the submission of packets for hallmarking at Goldsmiths’ Hall and Heathrow as part of the partial reopening of both sites.

However, it warned that turnaround times will be affected by the safety measures put in place, which includes a significantly reduced staffing level to allow for social distancing. 

Customers will therefore receive their completed packet later than normal, and the office will not give updates on time-frames for the completion of packets. 

In addition, there will be reduced counter opening hours between 10am and 1pm, Monday to Friday, and only card and online payments will be accepted. Priority services will no longer be held, and moderate or complex laser engraving will not be provided. 

Complex and moderate bespoke display hallmarks will also take more time, and new sponsor’s mark registrations remain suspended.

Meanwhile, the Sheffield Assay Office has resumed normal business hours of Monday to Friday, 8:30am and 4:30pm.

Its daily collection service, which was fully suspended at the beginning of the pandemic, will now operate in London and the South on Tuesdays and Thursdays, with an “adhoc” service for Birmingham, Leeds and Manchester. 

CEO and assay master, Ashley Carson, said: “Due to increased volumes of work being submitted, and having successfully altered our working practices to fully embrace the government’s guidelines for safe working, we have taken the decision to un-furlough 16 members of staff, across both our hallmarking and analytical services divisions, in order to increase our output capacity.”